I went to Tehran for Eid al Fitr, and it was spectacular, as usual. I basically put back on every single pound I lost during Ramadan by eating tahdeeg for every meal, falludeh Shirazi, and the best tahcheen. I finally visited the Carpet Museum of Iran, which unfortunately had no working air conditioning, and the rug I was looking most forward to seeing was put away in storage, but the rugs I did get to see were stunning. #ruglife

It’s no wonder that I love street art, Tehran is full of it. It’s rare to see a blank wall; they are either painted with a dedication to a martyr from the Iran-Iraq war, old politically charged pieces like the ones outside the former U.S. embassy, or more delightful ones like the work of Mehdi Ghadyanloo. Zhila things all over the place.

One of my favorite moments of the trip was saying prayers at the Emamzadeh Saleh mosque, and leaving with a blessed bag of salt that a kind woman gave me on my way out. Here’s my list of current favorites in Tehran:

Favorite brunch: Cafe Graph

Favorite museum: Carpet Museum of Iran

Favorite mall: Modern Elahiyeh

Best shopping: Tehran Bazaar

Best cheap eats: tahcheen at Moslem Restaurant in the bazaar

Favorite spot for an instagram photo shoot: the walls at Golestan palace

Favorite park: Water and Fire Park



Tehran street art mural

Tehran mosque


martyr mural




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